Thank You Volunteers…

I would like to express our gratitude and amazement at the number of Andy fan helpers we had last night. It was truly remarkable, what an unbelievable group of people we have been blessed with to help on our search for Andy.

Because of all the flyers posted, or handed out, and the organizing, and of course our stake out last night, we know Andy’s neighborhood and general schedule! It is such an amazing relief and comfort to me to know where he is currently and not always be chasing behind him by several days. Now I am concentrating on his retrieval. I will monitor his behavior and patterns to best establish locations for traps etc. Public knowledge as always is key, and continuing to make neighbors around where we have covered aware is very important to determine his pattern. It is very important that Andy feel safe there and I feel the more we search for him the less he will be comfortable, it doesn’t serve any purpose because we cannot approach him he is too scared.

I will post updates and ask for help when needed because you are all the best!! Time for Andy to come home to his family!!! Xoxoxo

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4 Comments on “Thank You Volunteers…”

  1. Bette says:

    You are so close Jordina! I read that you need to make sure he only is getting his food from what you are putting out for him so he learns to always go to those spots for his food and you can figure out his eating, sleeping patterns and movements. I also read a post where they put out food on paper plates that the elusive dog they were trying to catch would take them and eventually leave a trail so the rescuers were able to eventually find his den by following the paper plate trail. It may take some time for Andy to feel safe and trust to go into one of the traps and take the bait, but be patient – he will! It is like he has to be trained all over again! Good luck and best wishes! Bette

  2. Bette says:

    Items with familiar scent on them, such as the dog’s blanket, bedding, hair, hairbrush, toys, collar, leash, and travel kennel, have immense value when it’s lost. Don’t wash out the “doggy” smell. Bedding can be used to cover the floor inside a cage trap; a large blanket can be thrown over the outside. A lost dog is more inclined to go into a warm and cozy place if its blanket and favorite toy are inside. Don’t overstuff a trap – leave room for the dog to walk in, turn around, and be comfortable. Secure a toy (stuffed or rope type) to the rear wall – the dog should trip the trap while tugging on it. The person most bonded to the dog should put a worn, unwashed article of clothing inside the trap, such as a T-shirt that’s been worn several days in a row. Leave a pile of worn clothing or other items at a sighting location until the trap can be set up. Walk the dog’s canine pack members in a prime trapping or sighting location to lay down their scent. To leave a very personal mark, use a spray bottle to spritz urine on cotton balls, small rags, or the ground. The smell of puppies may interest a female. The scent of a female in season may attract a male, even if he’s neutered. Stuffed toys can hold scent or pique interest. It should be a bit easier to catch the dog if it’s already familiar with crates or kennels. If waiting for a trap to arrive, find a sheltered spot to fix up a kennel or crate as a bedding area – leave the food bowl outside. This gives a dog more room to rest and reduces the number of animals exploring the dog’s bed for food.

    Cage traps are covered to protect animals from exposure to weather and keep the interior dry. Comforters, blankets, and quilts are easy to use and help hold down a waterproof tarp (if using one). A thick comforter or several layers of blankets provide extra insulation during the winter months. The trap should be covered in such a way so that cold drafts are eliminated, especially near the bottom. Loose material that flaps or flutters on a windy day can scare the dog away – fold, cut, or weigh it down. Secure stray edges that might fall into the entrance and prevent the door from closing down tightly. Dogs are usually less suspicious of a trap camouflaged like an animal den. Materials to use include: burlap, small branches, pine needles, leaves or other forest debris, and bales of straw (not hay). Straw placed around the outside of a trap provides excellent insulation. Hide the first few inches of exposed wire inside the entrance using a few leaves, some grass clippings, or a little straw. The entrance must be cleared of rocks, pinecones, sticks, or stumps that could prevent the door from closing tightly. Check inside, outside, and underneath for obstructions, then open and close the door to make sure it works right. Covered traps are generally more successful – throw something on yours, even if the weather is pleasant.

    Always test a trap’s function. Estimate how hard the lost dog will step on the tripping mechanism, then try to trip the trap by applying the same pressure with your hands, a dog of similar size, or a sturdy stick. If you think the lost dog doesn’t weigh enough to trip the trap being used, put a small rock, brick, or piece of wood on the trip plate or pad to adjust its sensitivity. Counterweights can’t touch or interfere with a rod or chain and must be placed well off to the side, allowing room for the dog to step through easily.

    Lost dogs are always hungry – use several aromatic foods to make your bait dish irresistible. Don’t overfeed a starving dog – small but steady portions of food are more easily tolerated. Try meatballs in red sauce, dark turkey meat, pizza, or wet dog food with bacon bits or cheddar cheese. Cooked hot dogs are tasty, and easily bagged to carry around as pocket-sized emergency dog treats. De-bone all meats – don’t risk someone’s pet choking on the bait you put out with good intentions. Don’t use cat food unless you’re checking on the trap frequently – cat food attracts cats very quickly. Tie a few hot dogs, a hunk of meat, or bacon strips (attached to paper plate) to the top rear of a trap with a thick cord (string = choke hazard). Leave few tidbits outside – the goal is to entice a hungry dog inside. Set a small to medium-sized bowl at the rear of a trap, past the trip plate or on the rear of a trip pad. A big bowl just makes it easier for dogs not to step on a trip mechanism – they simply lean over and eat.

    Extreme temperatures, insects, small rodents, and other things take a toll on food – in or outside a trap. Bait needs to be fresh and appetizing – replace anything old, rancid, or frozen – as quickly as possible. To warm up cold/frozen bait – put it in a plastic bag placed on the dash and turn the defroster on high. Offer a separate bowl of dry kibbles if you’re not around to warm up frozen bait as often as you should. Provide fresh (unfrozen) water so the dog doesn’t have to leave the area in search of a natural source. If a dog has to crouch to go into the trap then it’s tall enough to hit the door’s overhang by accident. Don’t put bait on top of or underneath the overhang – the door will trip if the dog nudges it enough. A trap must be able to accommodate a dog that’s crouches down and stretches out as it steps inside. When a cautious dog trips a trap, it senses something’s “wrong” and tries to back out immediately. If the dog doesn’t back up fast and far enough, the door will come down on its backside. If the dog moves forward, the door will finish closing and trap it inside – startled but safe. If the dog continues backing up, the door will finish closing with the dog on the outside looking in. A dog may approach a trap, but hesitate to go in. Assess the situation to see if both you and the dog can afford to wait – hunger usually overrides caution. If you do feed the dog outside the trap, provide several small meals throughout the day. Use the same bowl for every meal and keep moving it closer to the trap – as fast as possible. Once the bowl is placed inside the trap use a combination of foods the dog will find hard to resist.

    You can see from a distance if a trap’s been tripped by tying a square of white cloth or reflective material to the front door. The material must be secured so it doesn’t flutter around, blow off, or interfere with the closing of a tripped door. This is NOT a substitute for walking up close to and checking a trap.

    In case of an emergency or other serious matter, people need to be able to identify and contact those responsible for setting up and maintaining the trap. Use your flier (or plain paper) to provide the names and 24/7 phone numbers of at least two people who can be reached without a problem. Seal it in a weatherproof plastic bag and attach to or next to the trap in a visible, easily found location.

    Don’t rush to let your dog out of the trap – it may be confused or excited and bolt right past you. Take the dog (still in the trap) to a vet’s office, home, or animal shelter, then release it inside a building. If you’re sure the dog can’t escape, release it from the cage trap in an outside kennel or fenced-in yard.

    Careful preparation and proper maintenance of a trap helps catch a lost dog that much sooner. Check on a regular basis to release unwanted animals and get the trap back in operation quickly. A golden opportunity is wasted if the dog approaches your trap but there’s already a “guest” inside. With or without food inside, a trap can be tied open so the dog gets accustomed to being around it. It can be set up as a bedding trap – with food being supplied nearby. Use a trap to best fit the situation. Bad weather’s coming? Too cold or very late and you have to go home? If you can’t be there to check the trap responsibly, remove the food and shut it down until you can. Remember – the purpose of a humane cage trap is NOT to endanger the well-being of wild or domestic animals. Don’t allow an animal to be needlessly trapped for hours because you didn’t think it would matter that much – it just may.

    Wear gloves and wash your hands after handling things an animal might have licked, marked with urine, or left traces of blood or scat on, including dishes, bedding, toys, covers, and the trap itself. There are many reasons why a cage trap must be used with care – work the trap with a local professional. Anyone working a trap needs to know how to release “guests” in a safe manner before a situation arises. An animal may back into a corner, but can lash out quickly and unexpectedly. Watch your fingers when opening the trap so you don’t get scratched or bitten. If there’s no rear access door, prop up the front door, then walk away and give the animal a few minutes to venture out on its own. A professional who’s had training or experience should handle the release of wild animals and any “very angry” domestics.

    Grabber “tongs” can help arrange and retrieve items inside traps without a rear door access. Tongs are relatively easy to find at stores that sell specialty items for elderly or handicapped people.

    WARNING…CAN YOU FIT INSIDE THE TRAP?
    USE TRAPS WISELY and RESPONSIBLY.

    It’s easy to press down on a trip mechanism and accidentally trap yourself! If there’s a rear door, just push it up and crawl out. If you’re stuck, you have to get out on your own or call someone to let you out. If crawling inside, the door must be tied up securely. Lacking a rubber tie down or rope, prop the door up with a sturdy stick, take 2 wire coat hangers and cell phone inside, and leave one leg outside the entrance. With a bi-fold door trap, push up any latch clip/s and reach through the upper half of the door grid with a hanger. Hook the outside grid and pull it towards you, then push the bottom of the door out. To get out of a ring trap – push the rings up and open the door with a foot – your hands are busy holding up the rings. It’s scary to hear a trap door slam down behind you, and humbling to be so stupid. Never put yourself or others at risk, especially while working in remote locations or during foul weather conditions.

    http://www.lostdogsearch.com
    Debbie (Hall) Scarpellini copy 2/2009

  3. Lexy Johnson says:

    I am sending you my best wishes for a safe recovery. I lost my dog (slipped out of her color so no tags) on Cape Cod years ago and found her 21 days later in Plymouth (ironically). More than 22 miles and the Sagamore Bridge. The flyers and communications is what made the people call me when they found her tied to the gate of an animal shelter one morning (before it opened). While she was thin and dirty, within moments she’d remembered exactly what home was like. Your efforts make mine look elementary so I KNOW you will locate him and get him back. I will keep all our canine, feline, equine and human fingers crossed for you here. Corgi’s can do anything!

  4. What is current ANDY status please?


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